Skincare,  Skincare Ingredient Analysis,  Skincare Reviews

JLO BEAUTY: Worth the hype? Ingredients: That Big Screen SPF30

This article will objectively look into the ingredients of the JLo Beauty That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser. It will identify their role and potential irritants to the skin. After that an analysis was compiled to look into the properties and efficacy of these ingredients when used together. Is the JLo Beauty sunscreen worth it? Does it offer enough UV protection? How is it priced compared to other skincare on the market? 

 

That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser 

50ml 54 USD (approx. £38)

 

Active Ingredients:

Homosalate 15.0%

Sunscreen active. Protects mainly from UVB rays. Its UVA protection is very narrow, therefore it is usually used in combination with other UV filters.

In cosmetic products it is restricted to a maximum amount of 10% in the EU or 15% in the States.

It is considered to be non irritant to the skin, although various information appears online. The tests done by the European Commission conclude that Homosalate is not skin sensitising. 

There are also concerns that homosalate is an endocrine disruptor. However, the same study finds that homosalate has no estrogen effects that could potentially affect human health.
Octisalate 5.0%

Sunscreen active. Protects mainly from UVB rays. It is not a strong UV filter on itself, which is why it is usually combined with other UV filters.

It is restricted to a maximum amount of 5% in cosmetic products in the EU and the States.

Zinc Oxide 3.0%

Also used to protect, soothe and heal the skin. It provides a barrier to the sun and other irritants. 

Provides both UVB and UVA protection. It is believed to pose no risk for skin irritation.

 

Water Water (which is the base of this product)
Glycerin

Naturally found in the skin, it is skin-replenishing and skin-restoring, helping to maintain moisture levels. It can also improve the spreading qualities of creams.

It can be comedogenic and irritating to some individuals if used in concentrated solutions.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Helps avoid moisture loss, moisturises and replenishes skin. It also promotes penetration and does not leave visible traces of oiliness on the skin.
Cetearyl Alcohol Fatty alcohol. Does not pose irritating effects on the skin. It is used as an emulsifier and texture enhancer.
Glyceryl Stearate

Allows oil and water to mix, also assists moisture retention for the skin.

It is mild with low risk of irritation. However, it could be irritating if it is of poor quality.

PEG-100 Stearate Thickening agent with a waxy feel.
Dimethicone

Silicone that creates a permeable film on your skin to prevent moisture loss. Also gives the impression of smooth skin.

It also protects skin against moisture loss when used in large quantities. In addition, it improves the flow and spreadability of a product.

Dimethicone can become a good waterproofing material for sunscreen emulsions. It can also reduce the greasy feeling often seen in sunscreens.

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Various proteins derived from vegetables. Used as a water binding agent. It gives products the capability of retaining moisture into the skin.
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract This is lotus flower extract. It is an antioxidant and has skin soothing qualities.
Withania Somnifera Root Extract Commonly known as Ashwagandha. Almost no research has been found on its benefits in cosmetics and skincare. It is believed to have some antioxidant and anti-ageing properties.
Himanthalia Elongata Extract

Extract of a species of algae (brown algae). Algae have antioxidant properties and are water binding agents. 

Believed to improve the appearance of aging skin. Algae have the property of water absorption. Thus, this ingredient could help plump the skin.

Seaweed extracts also seem to be effective in treating acne due to its presumed antibiotic properties. 

Seaweed is believed to be stimulating, revitalising and nourishing to the skin. It is also believed it has anti-inflammatory and disinfectant abilities. It can also protect skin from irritation.

Marine Algae are believed to be natural photoprotective agents, absorbing UV light. Their richness in photoprotective substances is believed to protect the skin from UVB and UVA damage. However, the studies regarding this are not yet conclusive.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract

Plant extract with skin soothing properties. Also an antioxidant. It is considered an anti-irritant and it can have the ability to absorb UVA and UVB rays. 

Gigartina Stellata Extract An extract of the thallus of algae. For the benefits of algae please see above.
Hydrogenated Lecithin Emollient with water binding properties. Also believed to have skin restoring properties.
Chondrus Crispus Extract

Red algae which is very rich in nutrients for the skin. Contains antioxidants and protects the skin from blue light exposure. 

For more general properties of algae please see above.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Type of green tea plant. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

 It also has anti-aging properties and helps sun damaged skin. When used in sunscreens, it can improve the product’s SPF.

Aspalathus Linearis Extract Commonly known as rooibos. It is a source of antioxidants. It is also believed to help with wound healing and inflammation. Not a lot of information was found about this ingredient when used topically.
Boswellia Serrata Extract Has both positive and negative effects on the skin. On one hand it is believed to have skin soothing properties, on the other, just like other fragrant plant extracts it could be sensitising to the skin.
Honey Extract

It is beneficial to the skin due to its peptide, amino acid, antioxidant, antibacterial composition. 

Honey forms a barrier on the skin that can help protect and soothe. It creates a watertight film on the skin, helping it to rehydrate itself. Honey can also help with healing wounds.

Honey could cause allergic reactions in people allergic to pollen.

Tocopheryl Acetate It is a form of vitamin E and an antioxidant. See below for more.
Tocopherol

Vitamin E which is an antioxidant.

Vitamin E can improve the appearance of dry, rough and damaged skin due to its water binding properties. 

It is also believed that it is effective in preventing irritation from sun exposure. It is therefore useful to be used in UV protective products.

Ethyl Ferulate Trehalose A modified form of trehalose. Trehalose is a plant sugar that has hydrating properties to the skin.
Disodium EDTA Preservative, chelator and stabiliser.
Cetyl Palmitate Emollient that helps to condition dry skin
Bisabolol It has skin soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. Usually extracted from camomille but it can also be obtained synthetically.
Triethoxycaprylylsilane Silicone that can function as a binding agent and emulsifier.
Sorbitan Stearate Emulsifier
Polysorbate 80 An oil-in-water emulsifier.
Butylene Glycol Texture enhancer
Sodium Hyaluronate

Considered to be a more efficient form of hyaluronic acid with skin restoring and replenishing properties. 

It moisturises the skin, giving elasticity and suppleness. Its ability to retain water gives an immediate effect of suppleness to the skin, improving rough skin surfaces.

Isopentyldiol Humectant. It gives skin a non-tacky feel. It also has a moisturizing effect.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10 Peptide. Works as a skin-restoring ingredient with potential anti-aging benefits. It is also believed it can calm visible signs of sensitisation.
Farnesol

Extract of plants that is mainly used as fragrance. There are some claims that it also has antioxidant and anti-ageing properties but there is no research into it.

It can cause skin irritation and allergies. In the EU it has to be present on the ingredient list separately from ‘fragrance’ due to this.

Tetrapeptide-14 A peptide designed by a small company (Helix Biomedix). It is supposed to have a soothing effect on the skin, reducing redness and inflammation. It can also plump the skin, giving the effect of more youthful skin.
Caprylyl Glycol Preservative
Hexylene Glycol Slip Agent
Ethylhexylglycerin Skin softening agent, also used as a preservative.
Xanthan Gum Used to stabilise emulsions (oil and water), thickening agent and texture enhancer.
Citric Acid

Used to adjust the pH of products, is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) and so can exfoliate skin if used in the right amount within a product. It can also whiten the skin, so it could help with uneven skin tones. 

AHA does make the skin more sensitive to sun exposure.

Phenoxyethanol Preservative. Can cause contact allergies and contact dermatitis. It is limited to 1% of the finished product if used as a preservative. However, if used according to the regulations it should not cause any harmful effects.
Sodium Benzoate Preservative. It has restrictions regarding its concentration in products.

 

ANALYSIS

 

How effective is it as a sunscreen that blocks UV radiation?

 

If you have read my other reviews of sunscreens sold in the USA, then you know That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser starts off on the wrong foot. Cosmetic products need to abide by the regulations and safety checks of the country they are sold in. Unfortunately, the USA is one of the countries where due to the FDA regulations (Food and Drug Administration) sunscreen products tend to suffer. The FDA, which approves and regulates the use of chemicals and ingredients in skincare, has not yet approved many innovative and new sunscreen filters. There are only 16 UV filters allowed to be used in the States, compared to the EU, which has approved 31. The USA mainly lacks effective UVA filters. 

If you buy sunscreen sold in the EU for example, you will notice it has significantly more UV filters, especially when it comes to UVA filters. This is particularly worrying because UVA are the longer wavelength ultraviolet radiations which are associated with skin aging. UVA rays can penetrate the skin deeper than UVB radiation. 

This is the case for the JLo Beauty sunscreen as well, which only has a very limited protection against UVA. The active ingredients of JLo Beauty’s That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser are what is offering protection against UV radiation. These are two chemical filters, both generally only filtering UVB, the shorter wavelength ultraviolet radiation, which causes skin burns. The only active ingredient which provides reliable UVA protection is the Zinc Oxide which is present in a concentration of only 3%. It is safe to assume that the JLo Beauty Sunscreen does not offer much UVA protection. 

 

Because of the FDA regulations That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser fades in comparison with other sunscreens and it does not offer the best UV protection for your skin. When choosing a sunscreen you should always choose something that offers high protection against the UVA rays as well as the UVB ones. 

Unfortunately, this makes the JLo Beauty sunscreen lose major points when it comes to its efficiency in protecting the skin from the damaging UV radiation. As mentioned, the product needs to comply with FDA regulations as long as it is sold to US customers and shops.

 

Does it have a white cast?

 

Due to the active ingredients being mostly chemical UV filters, this sunscreen should not leave a white cast.

 

That Big Screen and the damaging blue light from electronics


That Big Screen Sunscreen does offer protection against blue light. Blue light is generated by our smartphones or screens and it can promote ageing and discoloration of the skin. This quality is given by the Chondrus Crispus Extract which is a type of red algae.

 

Free radicals protection and more help for sun damaged skin



Free radicals are considered a major factor in skin ageing. They do cellular damage, causing decreased skin elasticity. In terms of protecting the skin from free radicals, the JLo Beauty sunscreen is packed with antioxidants. A mixture of antioxidants can enhance the photoprotective effects of a formulation. Besides antioxidants, the JLo Beauty That Big Screen has a combination of ingredients that can also protect the skin from further sun damage.

That Big Screen In a Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturiser contains Vitamin E which is effective in preventing irritation from sun exposure. It is believed to be a very useful ingredient to be added in sunscreens. The Licorice Root extract can have the ability to absorb UVA and UVB rays. 

The green tea extract is also useful when used in a sunscreen, because it can extend the product’s SPF. That Big Screen also contains multiple extracts of algae, which are believed to help with tissue renewal and to improve the healing of burns ,including sunburns. Marine algae extracts are also believed to have the potential of absorbing UVA and UVB radiation. However, more studies on their use in cosmetic products need to be made.

It also contains many ingredients with anti-inflammatory properties and some with the ability to even out the skin tone and prevent discoloration of the skin. 

What are some interesting or perhaps more unique ingredients?

 

In terms of special ingredients that are more rarely seen in sunscreens, the JLo Beauty cream has honey extract, which helps to keep the skin barrier healthy. That Big Screen also has some anti-ageing ingredients and water binding agents which will help plump the skin. The JLo Beauty sunscreen also has some calming ingredients, such as palmitoyl tetrapeptide-10 and bisabolol, which could prevent irritation. 

 

Can it be used as a moisturiser? 

 

That Big Screen is also hydrating, having glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride and sodium hyaluronate. The presence of dimethicone high up on the list means that this product has the potential of smoothing your skin and of being a good base for makeup. The dimethicone should also help counteract the sticky feeling of sunscreen. Overall, this means That Big Screen is not just a sunscreen, but it is also a hydrating cream, packed with antioxidants, with the potential of performing well under makeup. 

 

Is it really fragrance free?

 

The JLo Beauty sunscreen is advertised as being fragrance free. It does, however, contain farnesol which is a fragrant plant without many researched skin benefits. In fact, farnesol is believed to be an allergen risk and it can cause skin irritation. 

In addition, the sunscreen also contains boswellia serrata extract which is another plant mainly used for its fragrant properties. While naturally occurring fragrance is better than synthetic one, it can still sensitise skin. In fact, in the EU farnesol is on the 26 most-known allergenic substances and therefore is strictly regulated and has to be clearly shown on the  ingredient list due to its high risk of irritation and allergy. 

 

What other ‘free of’ claims are there? 

 

According to the official JLo Beauty website, That Big Screen is also free of parabens, phthalates, oxybenzone and mineral oil.

 

Is this product vegan?

 

No. This product contains honey extract.

It is interesting to see that although this product is not vegan, the brand takes into account the fact that oxybenzone has the potential to damage coral reefs and therefore, they did not use it in their product. Mineral oil is another ingredient that is considered not to be environmentally friendly. This has also been avoided and a more environmentally friendly substitute was used.

That Big Sunscreen is Leaping Bunny certified, which means that neither Jlo beauty or the manufacturers of the ingredients have tested on animals. It also means that even if the product would be sold in foreign countries, no animal testing of the product is permitted. 

 

Is it overpriced?

 

For the amount of ultraviolet protection it offers I do believe this product could have been priced better. It costs $54 (£38) for 50ml, which compared to other sunscreens available, is on the pricier side, with many more affordable options on the market. However, other creams that contain algae extract and are packed with antioxidants tend to be on the pricier side as well. 

For example, Elemis’ Pro Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30 costs an eye watering amount of 120 dollars for 50 ml of cream. This means 1ml of the Elemis cream costs 2.41 US dollars. 1ml of the JLo Beauty sunscreen costs 1.08 US dollars. Other sunscreens with antioxidants and moisturising properties can cost even more or significantly less. For example, 1ml of the Dermatologica’s Daily Skin Health Prisma Protect SPF30 costs 1.63 dollars. On the other hand, the same SPF30 with moisturising and antioxidant properties from the Ordinary costs 0.24 dollars per 1ml.

 

Is it worth it?

 

SPF 30 is a generous amount for daily use, and the fact that the JLo Beauty sunscreen includes protection from blue light is fantastic. The inclusion of so many antioxidants and hydrating ingredients and other beneficial ingredients for the skin is also fantastic. Overall, That Big Screen is packed with many beneficial ingredients to the skin that have various roles. Together, they form a complex product. However, when using a sunscreen, your entire attention should go into the UV filters it contains. 

If you can only get sunscreen from the USA then this product could be worth it, due to its combined and well balanced ingredients with various properties. However, if you can get sunscreen outside the USA or online with much better UV filters, especially UVA ones, then the JLo Beauty sunscreen is not worth it. On the European or Asian market there are many creams packed with UVA and UVB filters that will offer a much better protection from the damaging UV rays. 

Also, although this product is claimed to be fragrance free, the presence of farnesol is not the best. As mentioned before, farnesol has a high risk of developing skin allergies and irritation. It is very disappointing to see such an excellent combination of antioxidants, hydrating ingredients, UV filters and anti ageing properties be spoiled by the presence of a fragrant ingredient with high risk of irritation and allergy. 

Also be aware that honey can cause an allergic reaction in people with an allergy to pollen.

 

Read my Ingredient Analysis and Review of the JLO BEAUTY Cleanser, Serum and Mask here.

 

Other analysis of JLO Beauty Skincare items will be published soon. To make sure you are notified, please subscribe to the blog’s newsletter or follow Lipstick Café on social media.

 

 

 


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Sources Consulted

 

Antczak, S. and Antczak, G., 2001. Cosmetics Unmasked. London: Thorsons.

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National Center for Biotechnology Information, 2021,  PubChem Compound Summary for CID 445070, Farnesol, Available here. [Accessed 24 March 2021]

Pangestuti, R., Siahaan, E. A., & Kim, S. K. (2018). Photoprotective Substances Derived from Marine Algae. Marine drugs, 16(11), 399. Available here. [Accessed 24 March 2021]

Paula’s Choice, Ingredient Dictionary, Available here. [Accessed 24 March 2021]

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Romanowvski, P., Can You Get Hooked on Lip Balm?: Top Cosmetic Scientists Answer Your Questions about the Lotions, Potions and Other Beauty Products You Use Every Day, 2011. Ontario: Harlequin.

The European Parliament and the Council of European Union, 2009. REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. Official Journal of the European Union, L 342/59. Available here [Accessed 20 March 2021].

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Disclaimer

 

This article is not sponsored and does not contain any affiliate links.

The author of this article is not a chemist. This article is for informational purposes only. The description and analysis of ingredients is by no means exhaustive, and it serves more of a basic outline. Always do your own research regarding ingredients in skincare and patch test the product before using. To read full Disclaimers click here.

The Featured Image is used for informational purposes only: source.

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